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Morocco (Tetouan Medina) The Gates

Introduction

There’s something really special about Morocco. The bright colours, strong smells, and busy streets have drawn in travellers and artists for a long time. As a street photographer, I’ve always loved the mix of old and new you see in Moroccan cities. But it wasn’t until I met my wife that I truly fell in love with the country and its people.

My wife is Moroccan, and through her, I’ve learned a lot about the culture and daily life here. As we travelled through different towns and cities, I kept picking up my camera as I sought to capture the beauty and feeling of this place through photos.

She was the one who first took me to the lively markets and narrow streets of the old towns (medinas). She showed me quiet corners that most tourists never see, and introduced me to the people who make Morocco feel so alive.

As a street photographer, I’m always searching for new ideas and moments. In Morocco, I found endless inspiration. I’ve photographed kids playing in the streets, old men relaxing at cafés, and the bold colours of spices and fabrics at the market. I’ve also captured quiet, everyday moments that say a lot about life here.

But Morocco isn’t just about beauty. Many people here struggle with poverty and unfair conditions. Life can be hard for many. I think it’s important to show this side too — not just the good, but the real. My goal is to use my camera to tell honest stories, and to give attention to people who are often ignored.

Still, even with the struggles, I’ve met people in Morocco who are proud of their traditions and love to share them. Whether it’s dancing at a wedding, having tea with a family, or talking with strangers on the street — Morocco has shown me how powerful human connection can be. It’s a place that’s taught me a lot about life and culture.

Tetouan: A City of Contrasts

This blog looks at the gates that lead into the beautiful Medina of Tetouan. Found in northern Morocco, the Medina is a mix of old and new. The streets are full of life and energy, yet there’s also a feeling of calm and history. Walking through Tetouan feels like stepping into a story, where old buildings stand alongside modern life. Every turn shows something new from the past, reminding us why this place is so important as a meeting point of cultures.

Tetouan’s Medina: A Place Full of Life

At the heart of Tetouan is its old Medina — a maze of narrow streets that hold memories of the past. The stone walls and carved doorways have stood for hundreds of years, keeping the city’s history alive. With busy markets and winding paths, the Medina tells the story of Tetouan. As I walked through it, camera in hand, I was drawn in by the colours, the details, and the feeling of something ancient.

But it’s more than just a beautiful place. The Medina is about the people, their strength, and the sense of community. Here, I share the photos and stories that moved me as a photographer. The colours are bold, the people kind, and even the small moments feel magical. But there’s also another side — one of struggle. Many people here face real challenges, just like in many parts of the world. Through these stories, I hope to show both the beauty and the reality of life in Tetouan.

Tetouan is a city in northern Morocco, near the Mediterranean Sea and the Rif Mountains. It’s close to the Spanish area of Ceuta, which has made it an important link between Africa and Europe for hundreds of years. This location helped Tetouan become a place where different cultures, ideas, and traditions came together.

The city’s culture is shaped by its Berber roots and strong Spanish-Andalusian and Moorish influences. You can see this mix in its buildings and way of life. Tetouan is not just historic — it’s also full of energy. Its busy markets, local cafes, great weather, and food make it a lively place to explore. Whether you’re walking through the narrow streets of the Medina or tasting local dishes, the city leaves a lasting impression. Today, Tetouan is an important cultural and economic city in Morocco. Its spot on the Mediterranean brings in both local and international visitors year-round.

Tetouan began as a small Berber village. It became more important during the Islamic rule, especially in the 13th century under the Marinid dynasty, who turned it into a military base and later a growing city. Its location near the sea made it a centre for trade, learning, and culture, linking Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, many Muslims and Jews fled Spain during the Reconquista and settled in Tetouan. They brought their skills in art, design, and learning, helping to shape the city’s look and feel. This influence is still visible today, especially in the medina’s architecture. Because it’s by the sea, Tetouan has long been a hub for trade and fishing. Its port connected it to other Mediterranean cities and helped its economy grow. Fishing is still a big part of life here.

The city is also known for its strong arts and crafts scene. Tetouan is famous for its music, dance, woodworking, pottery, weaving, and textiles — skills passed down for generations. Its food also reflects many influences, from Berber and Arab to Jewish and Mediterranean. Tetouan is also a centre of learning, with universities and schools that attract students from around the region. This gives the city a vibrant intellectual and cultural life. One of Tetouan’s most special places is its Medina (old town), built in the 15th century by people who fled Spain. It’s full of Andalusian, Arab, and Moorish styles. Located between the mountains and the sea, it was a perfect spot for trade and culture to mix.

The Medina is so well preserved that it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The narrow streets, white houses, hand-carved woodwork, and colourful tiles show how people lived centuries ago. Walking through it feels like stepping back in time. Tourism in the Medina has grown in recent years. Many visitors come to see the traditional crafts — like leather work, weaving, pottery, and metalwork — still made by hand in small workshops. It’s a great place to buy unique handmade items and learn about local life. Even with modern changes, the Medina remains the heart of Tetouan. Its history, culture, and crafts are still alive, and its UNESCO status helps protect it for the future.

The Gates ("Bab")

The Medina of Tetouan is surrounded by walls with special gates called “Bab” in Arabic. Each gate has its own name, design, and history. They are important not just for getting in and out of the Medina, but also as symbols of the city’s past.

Gates like Bab el Okla and Bab Saidi are well-known. They have stood for centuries, showing the city's rich culture and history. It’s important to protect these gates so future generations can enjoy and learn from them.

The gates are beautifully built, with curved arches and detailed designs that mix Moorish and Andalusian styles. They show the skill of the builders and the cultural mix that shaped Tetouan.

There are around eight main gates in Tetouan’s Medina. Each one is different and adds to the character of the city. These are: Bab Okla, Bab Jiaf, Bab Nuader, Bab Remuz, Bab Mqabar, Bab Saida, Bab Tut, and Bab Ruah. Visiting these gates is like walking through the pages of Tetouan’s long and colourful history.

Bab el Okla - The Queen's Gate

Bab el Okla is known for its traditional Moroccan architecture. It features a horseshoe-shaped arch, which is common in Moorish design. The gate is made from local materials like stone and adobe, and decorated with detailed tilework on its front. The tiles show geometric shapes and floral patterns, highlighting the skill of the local craftsmen who built it. The main part of the gate is a large central archway, with two smaller doorways on each side for people walking on foot. The tall central arch is wide enough for carts and larger vehicles to pass through, while the smaller side entrances make it easy for pedestrians to enter the medina's narrow streets.

Bab el Okla has been standing for centuries. It was one of the main gates into Tetouan’s medina and had an important role in protecting the city. Its location helped control who entered the city and kept residents safe within the fortified walls. Over the years, the gate has seen many historical events and remains an important part of Tetouan’s cultural identity. Today, Bab el Okla is still a busy place. It’s a popular entry point for both locals and visitors. The area around the gate is always full of life, with merchants selling goods, shoppers browsing, and tourists passing through.

Like many historic buildings, Bab el Okla has needed care and maintenance. Preservation efforts are underway to restore and protect it. Local authorities and heritage groups are working to fix any damage, restore the design, and keep the gate strong for future generations.

In 1936, after the start of the Spanish Civil War, Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco arrived in Tetouan. He stayed near Bab el Okla and used the city as his base for military operations in Spanish Morocco. Tetouan was an important location for Franco’s Nationalist forces. From there, they could control key areas and hold a strong position in the region. While in Tetouan, Franco led campaigns against the Republican forces and worked to strengthen his control over Spanish Morocco. His presence affected both the war in Spain and the political situation in Morocco.

Franco’s time in Tetouan, especially near Bab el Okla, was a key moment in the history of both countries. His actions during this time shaped the outcome of the war and left a lasting impact on the region.

Bab Ruah - Gate of the Winds

Also known as Bab Er-Ruah or Bab Errwah, is located on the northeastern side of the Medina and named after the strong winds that blow through this area of the city. This gate, like others in Tetouan, features traditional Moorish and Andalusian architectural elements, such as horseshoe arches and intricate decorations. The gate is particularly significant as it connects the centre of Tetouan to the Medina, leads to what was historically known as the Jewish quarter of the city and is notable for its proximity to the King’s residence, also known as the Royal Palace of Tetouan. Its location adjacent to the former Jewish quarter emphasizes the city's cultural diversity and historical context. Beyond the gate, the Medina unfolds with a vibrant array of shops and stalls showcasing a diverse range of goods, from traditional handicrafts and textiles to spices, ceramics and jewellery.

Bab Tut - The Gate of Tangier

Bab Tut, also known as “the Gate of Tangier”, holds a significant place within the ancient walls of Tetouan. As one of the seven original gates that punctuate the perimeter of Tetouan’s Medina, the gate has served as a vital entry and exit point to and from the ancient city. It was constructed during the expansion of the medina after the immigration of Spanish Moors. This historical context adds depth to its architectural significance. Bab Tut stands in the northeastern part of Tetouan, strategically positioned to facilitate movement in and out of the walled city.

During the occupation of Tetouan by Isabella II’s soldiers in 1860, Bab Tut played a crucial role as a main entry point. Visitors passing through this gate would find themselves navigating a labyrinth of narrow, bustling streets. To the left lies the Suica neighborhood, the oldest area of the Medina, where you’ll encounter the 17th-century Jadida Mosque and connect with the streets of the Mellah quarter. In Morocco, these gates (known as “bab” in Arabic) hold immense historical, cultural, and architectural significance. They symbolize more than mere access points; they represent protection, local identity, and welcome. Bab Tut, with its imposing structure, has witnessed centuries of Tetouan’s vibrant life. As you pass through its arches, you step into a world of colours, aromas, and sounds – the essence of the Medina.

Bab Saida

Bab Saida is not just an ordinary gate; it stands as a testament to traditional Moroccan architectural style. Its features include sturdy walls, graceful arched openings, and decorative elements that reflect the city’s heritage. Dating back to the 17th century, the gate’s imposing presence has played a crucial role in controlling access to the city. Located at the entrance to the Sidi Saidi Mosque and built in 1609, the mosque is situated on the slopes of Jbel Dersa in the Rif Mountains of Northern Morocco and it exemplifies traditional Moroccan architectural style, characterized by sturdy walls, graceful arched openings, and decorative elements.

Its design reflects the fusion of Islamic and Andalusian influences, harking back to the city’s historical ties with Andalusia. As an integral part of Tetouan’s fortifications, the mosque served not only as a place of worship but also as a strategic point. It played a crucial role in controlling access to the city, ensuring security, and regulating trade and movement and its proximity to Bab Saida underscores its importance as a gateway to both spiritual and worldly realms. Interestingly, the gate and mosque are associated with the Saeid of Egypt. Sa’id Pasha, the Wāli (Governor) of Egypt and Sudan from 1854 to 1863, lived and died in Tetouan. His tomb lies near Bab Saida, adding a layer of mystery and reverence to the gate and the mosque. The Spaniards, recognizing the shared history between Tetouan and Spain, affectionately named Bab Saida as “Puerta de San Fernand”. This title pays homage to St. Fernando, who played a pivotal role in reclaiming Seville from the Moors. Through this nickname, the gate bridges the gap between two cultures and epochs.